Writing Assignments # 10 - Italian Tendencies!

My memories from Rome are still vivid. My memory from my travels in Italy and around Europe is still vivid as well. I know this doesn’t have to do with the pictures I took, but how much I truly enjoyed and soaked in just about everything I saw. Looking back on my time abroad, I would say that after the first few weeks of adjusting I realized that I wanted to live as much as possible like an Italian would live. Encouraged by both of my teachers, of course, I began to curb some of my American tendencies like moving too fast, rushing, and also eating American food, and began to pickup on Italian tendencies. I wanted to savor my (short) time abroad, and I felt like a very important way of doing this would to embrace the Italian lifestyle. This Italian way of life, and certain tendencies that these people had are what I remember most about my time abroad, and what is still the most vivid in my mind.

Italian culture varies quite a bit from American culture. Some key things that I noticed are their zest for life, and how they appear to enjoy everything, whether it be daily activities or having a glass of wine on a sunny day, just a little bit more. They also seem to spend just a little more time on everything, compared to Americans, and are definitely slower in a lot of aspects, especially walking.

Pertaining to Italian’s zest for life, I have a few examples. One of these has to do with the market in Campo dei Fiori, which is a very vivid picture in my mind. Both the Italian workers and patrons were both so enthusiastic about the market, rain or shine, early morning, or afternoon. It seemed that this was such a huge part of Italian culture, that the workers weren’t in fact working, but having a good time. One other aspect of the market that is still stuck in my mind is how every Italian treated each other with kindness and there were seemingly no differences between the vendors and customers. As well, when observing Italians at lunch, dinner, or just walking down the street, they were enjoying life just a little bit more than I remember back home in Seattle. This might sound a little weird to say, but I did notice it there, and also noticed a difference when I came home to Seattle. Laughing, cheering glasses, and hugs are what I vividly remember about groups of Italians sharing a meal. This is my idea of enjoying time with friends or family, however it is different from what I see and experience back home.

Italians definitely operate at a different speed or pace than Americans do. This is, of course, up for debate when talking about how Italians drive, or certain Americans’ athletic lifestyles, but the image of “strolling” is one I will not soon forget. When Italians are on walks, whether it be a post-meal stroll, morning commute, or even a trip to the market, they seem to always walk without a mission, or without a care in the world. As an outside observer, I noticed that this is completely different from how Americans in big cities walk, but also because I would pass nearly everyone on the street when I was walking at what I think is a completely normal pace. As I said, their pace of life also seems to be a little bit slower. When waiting for food at restaurants, it takes noticeably longer than back home. I will also never forget how long it took a group of girls in our group to purchase their necklaces in Naples. The language barrier could have gotten in the way, but the lady behind the counter was definitely not in a hurry to make some money, which is the exact opposite of the American way.

My time in Italy, as proven by my many memories and vivid observations, was definitely a time to compare Italian ways of life with my own practices, but also was a time where I learned about a culture that was so different from what I have experienced my entire life. I am so thankful that I paid attention to these Italian ways of life, and that I remember many so well because while I embraced some of the Italian enthusiasm for life, I also learned why I love the American “work work work” lifestyle. Maybe it’s just my observations, but our cultures are just a little bit different.

Writing Assignments # 9 - What is Italian Identity?

Only native Italians believe they know the “true” meaning of Italian identity. Majority of native Italians believe the real Italian identity is truly that: native Italians are the identity. This might be their view, but this is not true. Italy for Italians, as the current Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi preaches, is not a valid view of what Italy should be working towards, and also not a valid view of what Italy has been rapidly becoming.

Immigration is a key part of Italy’s culture, as much as Italians might not like to admit it. There are millions of immigrants in Italy, and a high percentage of those immigrants are illegal. The number of immigrants is also increasing with each year. These immigrants have developed and rooted out their place in the Italian identity. They are an extremely evident and contributing part of Italy, especially in specific neighborhoods of Italian cities, as well as in the south.

Because of the high concentration of illegal and legal immigrants in southern Italy, the south is somewhat separated from the north. The north is seen as more civilized, and because Italian culture, for the most part, is against foreigners, they are also against areas in the south. Many problems arise because of this clash of north and south. For one, northerners do not think of southerners as true Italians. This relates back to the real Italian identity. This identity is truly hard to define. Because of the high concentration of immigrants, many of who are second and third generation in Italy, Italian identity is not necessarily valid. This leads to the idea of who are actually citizens. Many immigrants are citizens, but many are not. It is hard for an immigrant to become an Italian citizen, and many are solely admitted to Italy on work visas for a temporary period of time.

In Rome especially, immigration, and the lack of Italian identity is very evident. Rome has specific areas of the city where, to a foreigner, one might think they are not actually in Italy. In the Esquilino Rione, the majority of businesses are owned by non-Italians, and the majority of its inhabitants are also immigrants. This can be seen in the market, and by simply walking around the neighborhood. These people have, however, developed their own thriving community not only in this neighborhood, but also throughout Rome, despite threatening tension from native Romans. This developed culture is evident through an orchestra that was created in order to unify the immigrants, but to also show their thriving culture in Rome. L’Orchestra Di Piazza Vittorio was started in 2002 and is still thriving today, despite their somewhat rocky start.

Italians must face and accept the new reality that is immigration into Italy. Tension and opposition to immigration is increasing, despite efforts against this. Italians must realize that immigration is a worldwide reality, and if embraced will make the country both a more cultural place, but mostly decrease the tension that is creating such a racial epidemic.

My Rione - The Vatican + Personal Interpretations

· Vatican City State has the singular characteristic of being an instrument of the independence of the Holy See, and of the Catholic Church, from any earthly power.

o The Vatican is in fact a city-state, not a “Rione”

o “City-state”: A sovereign state consisting of an independent city and its surrounding territory.

o The Vatican is not the same as the Holy See.

· Government

o Monarchy: Pope is Head of State.

o Sede Vacante (time between two popes): College of Cardinals exercise powers.

o Judicial authority lies with a Judge, a Tribunal, an Appeals Court and a Supreme Court.

· Fundamental Laws of Vatican State

o The Vatican ≠ The Holy See

o The Holy See is the authority, jurisdiction and sovereignty of the Pope and his advisors to direct the operations of the worldwide Roman Catholic Church.

o The Holy See has legal powers which allow it to enter into treaties and judiciary powers equal to those of a state.

· History

o The area was part of the Borgo rione until 1929.

o The Vatican is the only survivor of the Papal States that were in 17,000 square miles of land in 1859. This land was consolidated in 1870 during Italian unification. The new kingdom of Italy seized everything but the Vatican territory.

o Lateran Treaty of February 11th 1929: recognized full sovereignty of the Holy See in the State of Vatican City, which was thereby established.

· Territory

o Covers roughly 100 acres

o Surrounded partly by walls and stretches into St Peter’s Square. A strip of travertine stone that corresponds with the furthest end of the colonnade marks the boundary of the State.

o Vatican Gardens- cover 50 acres

o Vatican Palaces- Between the end of the 13th and the first decades of the 14th century the first Vatican palaces were built. The palaces include the Sistine Chapel (Sixtus IV (1471-1484)) and the present day papal apartments (Sixtus V (1585- 1590))

o Train station - Most railway traffic consists of freight good importation, although the railway has occasionally carried passengers, usually for symbolic or ceremonial reasons

· Vatican Bank

o Istituto per le Opere di Religione (I.O.R.)

o Formed in 1942 in order to invest and increase the funds given to the Holy See for religious works and purposes.

o Accounts are exclusive; reserved for permanents residents, members of the Holy See, the Pope, and some clergymen and laymen who have regular business dealings with the Vatican.

o Located in Sixtus V’s medieval tower.

o Secretive financial institution.

· Currency

o Vatican coins say “Citta Del Vatticano” and have Benedict XVI’s head on them. They are decorated Euros, can be used in Italy as well. The Vatican doesn’t issue notes, only coins.

o The economy is supported financially by an annual contribution (known as Peter's Pence) from Roman Catholic dioceses throughout the world (79 million dollars in 2007 and 102 million dollars in 2006)

o Sale of postage stamps, coins, medals, and tourist mementos

o Fees for admission to museums

o Sale of publications.

o Investments and real estate income

· Post office

o Stamps (85 cents for USA)

· Vatican Gardens

o Cover about 50 acres

o Cost to tour = 35 Euros

o Contain vegetation from many countries worldwide including Brasil, China, Japan and Australia.

o Also typical Italian plants and trees such as boxwood hedges, pines, cypresses, chestnuts and palms.

· Flag and National Anthem

o Crossed keys represent keys to the kingdom that Christ gave Peter

o The tiara represents the authority of the Holy See and the church

· Vatican City State has its own anthem (Pontifical March) like any other universally recognized, sovereign nation.

· Automobile License Plates:

o SCV = for vehicles belonging to the Vatican City State and Departments of the Holy See

o CV = for vehicles that are the property of Vatican citizens and individuals who, in agreement with Italian authorities, are allowed to register their vehicles in Vatican City.

o The international abbreviation is V.

o Pope’s license plate = SCV 1, red letters, on all three of his cars.

· Security

o Three bullet proof Mercedes, two of which are “pope mobiles” (SUVs).

o Italian government is responsible for the piazza.

o 5 entrances, each guarded by the Swiss Guard and the Gendarmes Corps of Vatican City State (Vatican police force).

o Teams of security guards employed by Vatican City oversee the various monuments within the Vatican (for examples, 18 security guards are in charge of controlling the crowds inside of St. Peter’s Basilica, as well as maintaining some of the artifacts).

o The Swiss

· Residents and Visitors

o Population = 824 people, of whom 450 have Vatican citizenship, while the rest have permission to reside there, either temporarily or permanently, without the benefit of citizenship.

o About half of the citizens live outside of Vatican City. Most of these people are diplomatic personnel and therefore live in different countries around the world.

o The Vatican citizenry consists almost entirely of two groups: clergy, most of whom work in the service of the Holy See, and a very few as officials of the state; and the Swiss Guard.

o Most of the 3,000 lay workers who comprise the majority of the Vatican workforce reside outside the Vatican and are citizens of Italy, while a few are citizens of other nations.

o Citizenship of Vatican City is granted iure officii, namely on the grounds of appointment to work in a certain capacity in the service of the Holy See. It usually ceases upon cessation of the appointment.

o Citizenship is extended also to the spouse, parents and descendants of a citizen, provided they are living with the person who is a citizen.

· “Extraterritorials”

o Vatican jurisdiction also covers some extraterritorial areas within and outside Rome.

o According to the Lateran Treaty, these buildings enjoy the same status, recognized by international law, as embassies and foreign diplomatic missions abroad.

o The areas occupied by these buildings are commonly known as “extraterritorial”.

o Example- Vatican pharmacy located in the Piazza del Belvedere

· Fun Facts

o Vatican radio- link Catholic Church with the rest of the world

o The Radio currently transmits on five channels via land, satellite and the internet. It broadcasts to all five continents in 39 languages for approximately 438 hours a week.

o The Vatican has the highest crime rate per capita in the world. There were 341 civil and 486 criminal cases in 2006.

o 90% of the crimes go un-punished.

o The Vatican does not have a jail, punishment is handled by the Italian government, but the Vatican pays them to do so.

o Country with highest rate of tourism

o In 2007 there were 4.3 million visitors, which is around 8,000 visitors per resident.

Personal Interpretations

The culture of The Vatican is very hard to define. Things that come to mind are religion, control of the Roman Catholic Church, and tourism. It’s a physical representation and home to the Catholic Church, as well as a home to the Pope, so it’s very important to people worldwide. The Vatican is a representation of God, here on earth. Why does the church, however, need to separate itself from the rest of Italy, and become a sovereign state? I think it has to do with the fact that they want control, and they want to separate church and state. They need to express that the church and its power should be separated from the country of Italy, because it is a worldwide power. This creates the theme of borders and barriers within The Vatican. It is not accessible. Only ten percent of the Vatican is viewable to the general public in St. Peter’s Square, and the rest is the Basilica, the Vatican Museums, and over 50 percent is private Vatican gardens reserved for the Pope and the College of Cardinals. The Vatican is not like any other neighborhood because it is hard to access, and to the general public, mostly for “show."

The Vatican’s way of life is simply to govern the Church, and that is it’s sole purpose. That is why it is distinguishable from every other neighborhood in Rome. I found it hard to look deep into the culture of The Vatican because it is hard to look at the restaurants, the shops, the parks, and other venues to identify the differences between neighborhoods. These places don’t really exist in The Vatican. It is easy to define what the Vatican is, but hard to define its culture. The Vatican is a religious area that is very important worldwide, especially in Italy. It is the governmental system of the Catholic Church, but its “culture” is invisible.

The Vatican is simply different than other neighborhoods, because it just isn’t a neighborhood. Is it holy? Yes. Is it religious? Yes. But these aspects aren’t culture. They’re definitions of the area. The Catholic Church is also exhibiting control with the Vatican, and separating it from Italy. This is a theme within The Vatican. Because The Vatican is so small and it is its own city-state, it is very difficult to get a feeling for the area. Being Catholic, I realize that it is important to have a place where people can visit, like the Vatican, and know that the Catholic Church is governed in that specific area. Although hard to define a specific culture within Vatican City, the area is very distinguishable, and a beautiful representation of the Catholic Church.

Writing Assignments # 7 + 8. O Napoli!

“A paradise inhabited by devlis.” (Jennifer D. Selwyn) Naples is Italy’s fourth largest city, and Europe’s most densely populated city. The city is over 2800 years old with rich, rich history, yet is continually characterized as dirty, dangerous, and overpopulated. It is known for its thriving black market, corruption, and high unemployment rates. Naples does not sound like a great place, does it? In order to truly know Naples, one must visit this beautiful city.

Before my visit to Naples, I was warned numerous times about how dangerous Naples is, and that we must be careful when we are there. Naples is, in fact, a dangerous place. There is crime, drug dealing, gangs, and corruption, yet all of these “dangerous” aspects to Naples did not show themselves on my visit. Not only did I not see the crime, when speaking to locals about this bad side of Naples, they told me a few interesting facts. These parts of Naples still exist, just in a hidden way. They also exist to a lesser extent than they did in the past. Presently, Naples is much less dangerous than it was twenty of thirty years ago. On our tour of the project housing in Scampia, a suburb of Naples, our new friend who guided us discussed how the area used to be swarming with drug dealers. Part of the reason that the housing units are not recognized by the government today is because of their horrible history with death and violence as a result of the drug dealers in the area. He also explained, however, that that is no longer such a problem in the area, and the suburbs of Naples are experiencing less and less crime because of the decrease in drug dealing.

The paradox of Naples, and of the southern part of Italy, is that for hundreds of years, the northern part of Italy has been calling the south uncivilized. The south has been further separated over the years, during the development of Italy, because most of the ruling families and important arts and cultural centers were in the north and in the Tuscan region. Because the south was left out of the majority of this development, the north eventually felt that they had to go to the south to occupy the region, and “tame” these dangerous people that inhabited the area. So, again, the paradox is that the south could have been anything: civilized, dangerous, normal, or anything else, but the north was ignorant so they used violence to attempt control over the south. This somewhat shaped the view of the south that still exists today, and as a traveler, I experienced firsthand that the generalizations about the south are not all true!

Naples is a city that is more overpopulated than it should be. I think this adds to the experiences of extremes that I felt on my visit. It was loud, congested, dirty, busy, but overall it was exciting. Every morning, the population in the center of Naples doubles, when hundreds of thousands of people enter the city through the ancient walls. The center of Naples is a melting pot of people from the outskirts and suburbs of Naples, immigrants, and normal residents who live there. The feel is different than Rome. It is more congested, where Rome feels more spread out. I also feel like Naples has a mysterious side to it. Maybe it is because I am a visitor and I do not know the city, but I mostly think that Naples’ reputation precedes it. We know and hear rumors and warnings about Naples, but what do we really know about it? The Camorra is apparently headquartered here. They have gangs. It is “dangerous.” The people look different. They move faster. It seems they are inherently busier than Romans, and have more of a stride to their step, but as a foreigner, it is hard for me to recognize exactly what they are doing.

An important observation about Naples is the attitude and actions of the Neapolitan people versus the Roman people. Neapolitans are different from Romans. They seem to be more accommodating, friendly, and more interested in foreign visitors. When I visited Naples I experienced people that embraced our group of Americans. Multiple people came up to our group, and were interested in what we were doing, inside and outside of the city. They wanted to talk to us, and they did not seem perturbed by our presence, like Romans often do. The interaction we had with inhabitants of Naples was very different from interactions in Rome, and I have made a few observations about this.

Romans feel entitled. This is an observation I have made, but have also discussed it with our Neapolitan “tour guide” Alexander Valentino, and he confirmed my ideas, while adding to them. Their history is rich, and they have always had money and power. This is a very Roman trait, and I think it still carries on to today. Important Roman families have always had power within the government, owned important real estate, and had “old” money. This is a theme in Roman history, and even if many of these families do not still exist today, the theme of entitlement as the all-powerful Italian city is still alive. This theme connected with the fact that Rome is constantly filled with tourists, has affected my interaction with the Roman people while I have been here. The Roman people seem arrogant in comparison to Neapolitans. They have experienced this entitlement, and this constant influx of tourism over the years that it seems they do not have the patience for it anymore. They have experienced so many cultures that it seems they have become intolerant, and uninterested.

These are the observations about Rome I have made before, but mainly after seeing Naples, and coming back to Rome. I do love Rome, and feel more at home here simply because I know the city, and have been here for an extended period of time. I am still very intrigued by Naples, however, and its mysterious side. I appreciate that the people of Naples are friendlier, and more inviting. It is interesting to make comparisons between Rome and Naples, because they are so different in many aspects. The ancient power of Rome as a city is their connecting factor because it had a lot to do with how both of these cities have developed and turned out in modern times.